In this article, I introduce World Class Rockclimbing Areas in Japan. (I apologize in advance if reading this article is hard because of my poor English.)
When I first visited Yosemite, I was so moved with the scale and quality of Yosemite routes. But at the same time, I was realized that we also had wonderful routes and could be proud of then to the world.
I introduce three good climbing areas – Ogawayama, Muzugaki and Jogasaki – in this article. These areas were the largest areas in Japan and there are hundreds of routes in each areas, of course with many good routes.
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Ogawayama, “Japanese Yosemite”
First area I introduce is Ogawayama. Ogawayama is one of the largest granite area in Japan and there are alomost thousand routes so it is called “Japanese Yosemite”.
Why is Ogawayama recommended?
You can enjoy all type of the climbing in Ogawayama – trad, sport, bouldering and multipitch. Yosemite like classic slabs or cracks and latest sport routes are mixed in. Because there are routes of varying difficulty – from 5.7 to 5.14, all climber from beginners to experts can enjoy climbing here.
There are about thousand routes in Ogawayama. You can approach most routes in about 1 hour on food from campground. The atmosphere of the campground is somewhat similar to Camp4 which is the most popular campground in Yosemite. In high season, many climbers enjoy climbing and camping.
Examples of World Class Route
I introduce two examples which we can be proud of for the world.
Excellent Power 5.13a
“Excellent Power” is the oldest 5.13a route in Japana and it continues to be a goal for climbers who want climb this grade even now.
This route links two route: “Silk Road 5.12c” and “Rocky Road 5.12a”, both are very nice routes. Climbers have to climb 50 meter sever and delicate route.
Kumo no Ito – Spider’s Thread 5.11c
The trad route “Kumo no Ito” is one of the most beautiful finger crack. ”Kumo no Ito” is called “the great three cracks in Ogawayama” with “Imujingawa” and “Banana Crack”. They are very classic and have been around for over 40 years since they were first climbed.
Its looks, location, movement, jamming are all wonderful – you can think “This is the Crack”.
Where is Ogawayama located? And other basic informaiton.
To approach Ogawayama, you need search “Mawarimedaira Camping Ground” on google map. You can go to all rocks on foot from this camping ground. Basically you need a car to approach here. It is difficult by train, bus or taxi.
Other information of Ogawayama is below.
- Rock…granite.
- Type…all type. Trad, sport, bouldaling and multipitch.
- Season…except winter, the best seasons are spring and fall.
- Stay…camping is the best. The mountain lodge “kimpou-sanso” is very close.
- Topo…OGAWAYAMA CLIMBING GUIDEBOOK（https://pump-climbing.com/guidebook/category/book/）-You can read this topo in English.
If you want to know more information, check the link. You can access japanese climbing information site “CLIMBING-NET”.
Mizugaki, One of the Largest Climbing Area in Japan
Second area I introduce is Mizugaki. Mizugaki is also big granite area. It is located in a foot of Mt.Muzugaki which is one of the “nihon hyaku-meizan(100 Famous Japanese Mountains)”.
Why is Mizugaki recommended?
You can also enjoy all type of the climbing in Mizugaki – trad, sport, bouldering and multipitch.
Compared to Ogawayama, you can climb more unique route in Mizugaki. For example, all route in “Crack Zigoku Area” have no bolt including endpoint. In another area such as “Kanmanboron”, there are some multipitch route which are very hard graded as 5.13a.
Although no bigwall routes like those in Yosemite or Squamish in Japan, you can have a similar experience in Mizugaki.
If you want to climb granite rock, I mostly recommend to go to Mizugaki. But fortunately if you have a car, it is very close between Ogawayama and Mizugaki. Therefore you should go both area in your saty.
Examples of World Class Route
I introduce two examples which we can be proud of for the world.
Arahitogami 5.12b
“Arahitogami” means the god that appeared in the form of a human in this world. This route has a great roof crack. Of course, the crux is in the roof but approach slab is also not easy. You need a strong mental strength because of the runnout which has only two bolts in 15 meter.
Haru Urara 5.11b, 5.12a
In the area – TOICHIMENN IWA MATTANN HEKI, there are many long crack routes. “Haru Urara” is the very important route in a historical sense. Same as other route, this route is also classic which is first climbed in 1980s.
This route consists of 2 pitches. The grade of 1st pitch is 5.11b with sever changing corner and long confortable finger crack.
The 2nd pitch is very hard finger crack. It is also difficult to find good condition.
Where is Mizugaki located? And other basic informaiton.
Mizugaki climbing area is located in a foot of Mt.Mizugaki which is one of “nihon hyaku-meizan(100 Famous Japanese Mountains)” in Yamanashi prefecture. It takes about three hours from Tokyo.
Basically you need a car to approach Mizugaki. It is difficult by train, bus or taxi. It is good to enter ”Mizugakiyama-shizen-kouen” into the navigation.
Other information of Mizugaki is below.
- Rock…granite.
- Type…all type. Trad, sport, bouldaling and multipitch.
- Season…except winter, the best seasons are spring and fall.
- Stay…camping is the best. There are Some guesthouses about 30 minutes away by car.
- Topo…Mt.MIZUGAI CLIMBING GUIDE BOOK（https://pump-climbing.com/guidebook/category/book/）
If you want to know more information, check the link. You can access japanese climbing information site “CLIMBING-NET”.
Jogasaki, Clasical Sea Cliff Trad Area
Third area I introduce is Jogasaki. Jogasaki is an andesite big sea cliff area which is located in Izu(japanese famous spot).
Why is Jogasaki recommended?
Although majority is trad climbing, you can enjoy both bolted sport climbing and trad climbing.
You can enjoy sea cliff climbing in Jogasaki. The characteristic of Jogasaki is the columnar jointing of andesite with many cracks, especially roof cracks. There are many high grade (5.12~) roof cracks. In these routes, three-dimensional movements are required. You need to mix face climbing technique and jamming technique.
Climbing like at Jogasaki is very rare and we hardly experience in the other place in Japan, maybe in the world.
Examples of World Class Route
I introduce two examples which we can be proud of for the world.
Marionette 5.12a
“Marionette” is one of the most popular roof crack in Jogasaki. This route is in the cave like area which is called “Astrodome “. There are many roof crack roots with an inclination of about 130 to 160 degrees. Suprisingly, “Marionette” graded 5.12a is an introductory route in this area.
Although you can climb with confortable jug, hand jamming and unique roof chymney, you feel very pumpy because of its steep inclination.
Mars 5.14a
“Mars” is one of the most difficult trad route in Japan. This route is graded 5.14a now. If this grade is true, it means that “Mars” is the first ascended 5.14 route in the world.
This route is perfectly on the roof and above the sea therefore you need hanging belay and it is hard to return to the route if you fall.
You will experience finger jammings that feel like your fingers are about to tear. Fisical, technical and mental strengths are essential to climb this route.
Where is Jogasaki located? And other basic informaiton.
A famous tourist destination, Jogasaki Corst is located in the east side of Izu. Climbing area Jogasaki is in the tourist area. In some place in Jogasaki, you will be climb under the tourists so you must be more careful about etiquette at the climbing zone.
Becaese Jogasaki is originally spot for tourist, You can access Jogasaki corst by train from Tokyo. Of course, you can come by a car. I will provide a link to the tourist site.
Other information of Jogasaki is below.
- Rock…andesite.
- Type…mjority trad and limited spot.
- Season…winter, the best season is December to February.
- Stay…no free(and cheap) camping site, you shoud reserve hotel or guesthous.
- Topo…nihon 100 iwaba(日本100岩場), paper or desital.
If you want to know more information, check the link. You can access japanese climbing information site “CLIMBING-NET”.
Enjoy climbing in Japan!!
I introduce three japanese climbing areas. Beside these, there are many good areas and routes in Japan. I guarantee that you will be satisfied when you come to Japan. We are waiting for you in Japan. Enjoy climbing in Japan!!
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